Originally posted by Mitchness:
Typical filter tightening rule is gasket contact + 1/4 turn. You don't want to reef on it because you will need that filter wrench to get it off otherwise.

Be sure to coat the new filter's gasket with a light coating of oil too. It'll assist with removal next change and won't leave the gasket attached to the block.

<font color="#a62a2a"><font size="1">[ April 14, 2008 02:57 PM: Message edited by: Mitchness ]</font></font>
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">wise words. Double gasketing isn't any fun and will turn out to waste the $$$ you just spent on your oil change.

The whole ordeal on what to loosen first doesn't actually matter. I start with poppin the hood and undoing the valve cover cap and make sure that all of my other fluids are topped off while i'm up there. Then the car is raised and usually go for the drain plug first before the filter but again, this doesn't matter. Take a little old oil and put a thin clean coat on the gasket on the new oil filter and hand tighten it back on till it stops.

Replace the drain plug's crush washer EVERYTIME and use about a 1/8 of a turn to tighten and "crush" the crush washer into place. Honda oil pans are very weak in this area so be careful with the ammount of pressure you add. I cant stress the ammount of stripped oil pans i've seen in my time as a quick luber at renton honda.

Oh yeah, if memory serves me correctly, nonvtec single cams take 3.5qts and vtec single cams take 3.75 qts.